The State of Food in Rhode Island

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THINGS THAT ARE ANNOYING ME AT THE MOMENT
Why I love being a cook, and why it annoys me when other cooks just don’t try…
I have been working in and out of the restaurant industry since I was 14 years old. Doing some quick math that means that for the past 18 years I have been part of this macabre brotherhood of fellow cooks who slave away in sweltering kitchens in order to serve good food to hungry people.
Why do we do it? For the Money? I doubt it, most average kitchen jobs pay a few bucks north of minimum wage. For the glory, and fame?  Nope. Although, with the recent emergence of celebrity chefs, it is has become somewhat glamorous to work in a kitchen, but unfortunately, that glamour is bestowed onto a minute percentage of the hundreds of thousands of nameless people preparing food in America’s thousands of kitchens.  So what, what could it possibly be..? well for some it is just a job, a way to earn money to pay bills.  And in my experience there are a number of those people lurking in kitchens, putting the bare minimum of effort into preparing boring food, that people will not remember even seconds after the last bite has crossed their lips.
I like to believe that those cooks are in the minority.  In my years of passing through countless kitchens, I have met some of the most meticulous, prideful and passionate artisans of a trade I have ever come across.  Most cooks want to produce good food.. they want people to eat it and be satisfied, to have their taste buds come alive, to exclaim to their friends.. “you have to try this..”. This is the reward for getting up early and spending countless hours prepping, and working nights and weekends and holidays, and missing out on time with our families.. to produce something that someone will remember, and to take pride in it.  
We are becoming a society of consumers, and every day getting further and further away from people who make things.. and take pride in it.  It is a shame.  I love working in kitchens, it is long, hot, hard and often thankless work, but it is all worth it when just one person tells you how good their food was.. how satisfying it was, how it reminded them of the meatballs their mom used to make..  it is something that most cooks take very seriously.
 It is why I cook still, part time, even though I work full time M-F at a job that pays well, but bores me to death.  Which is why I have included this rather depressing picture of a bowl of french onion soup.  It is something that is so simple, yet can be so delicious.  A coming together of a few very humble ingredients to make something wonderful, and salty, and cheesy, and crunchy.  Essentially some sauteed onions, in some beef stock with maybe some thyme, and sherry.. with a crouton floating atop, covered with a piece of Swiss cheese that has been melted under a broiler so it bubbles, and melts down the side.  Perfection achieved through simplicity and honoring a few basic ingredients.
Instead, at a not to be named restaurant, I received this..  some onion water, with a few stale croutons and a cold piece of cheese on top.  This is not French onion soup.  After dropping it on my table, I asked the waitress if the cheese was supposed to be melted.. to which she replied.. “Oh yeah, I forgot to put it in the microwave..”  Sigh.  I told her to leave it, I ate it with about as much enthusiasm as a child eats broccoli.  To be honest the soup wasn’t half bad, it was just disappointing as a whole.  Restaurants and cooks out there, do me a favor, if you can’t do something right, or with an ounce of pride or care.. just don’t do it.. don’t put it on your menu, don’t try and fail; because you owe it to the people who come in and pay for your food, which pays your salaries, to care and provide quality.
And most importantly you owe it to yourself to take pride in the fruits of your labor, to taste and adjust seasoning, to wipe the edge of that plate, to refire that piece of chicken when you hear your self about to say,”its not that bad”.. it is, and to put that French onion soup under the broiler you have in your kitchen, instead of in the microwave.. come on, do the right thing, it feels better.
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THINGS THAT ARE ANNOYING ME AT THE MOMENT

Why I love being a cook, and why it annoys me when other cooks just don’t try…

I have been working in and out of the restaurant industry since I was 14 years old. Doing some quick math that means that for the past 18 years I have been part of this macabre brotherhood of fellow cooks who slave away in sweltering kitchens in order to serve good food to hungry people.

Why do we do it? For the Money? I doubt it, most average kitchen jobs pay a few bucks north of minimum wage. For the glory, and fame?  Nope. Although, with the recent emergence of celebrity chefs, it is has become somewhat glamorous to work in a kitchen, but unfortunately, that glamour is bestowed onto a minute percentage of the hundreds of thousands of nameless people preparing food in America’s thousands of kitchens.  So what, what could it possibly be..? well for some it is just a job, a way to earn money to pay bills.  And in my experience there are a number of those people lurking in kitchens, putting the bare minimum of effort into preparing boring food, that people will not remember even seconds after the last bite has crossed their lips.

I like to believe that those cooks are in the minority.  In my years of passing through countless kitchens, I have met some of the most meticulous, prideful and passionate artisans of a trade I have ever come across.  Most cooks want to produce good food.. they want people to eat it and be satisfied, to have their taste buds come alive, to exclaim to their friends.. “you have to try this..”. This is the reward for getting up early and spending countless hours prepping, and working nights and weekends and holidays, and missing out on time with our families.. to produce something that someone will remember, and to take pride in it.  

We are becoming a society of consumers, and every day getting further and further away from people who make things.. and take pride in it.  It is a shame.  I love working in kitchens, it is long, hot, hard and often thankless work, but it is all worth it when just one person tells you how good their food was.. how satisfying it was, how it reminded them of the meatballs their mom used to make..  it is something that most cooks take very seriously.

 It is why I cook still, part time, even though I work full time M-F at a job that pays well, but bores me to death.  Which is why I have included this rather depressing picture of a bowl of french onion soup.  It is something that is so simple, yet can be so delicious.  A coming together of a few very humble ingredients to make something wonderful, and salty, and cheesy, and crunchy.  Essentially some sauteed onions, in some beef stock with maybe some thyme, and sherry.. with a crouton floating atop, covered with a piece of Swiss cheese that has been melted under a broiler so it bubbles, and melts down the side.  Perfection achieved through simplicity and honoring a few basic ingredients.

Instead, at a not to be named restaurant, I received this..  some onion water, with a few stale croutons and a cold piece of cheese on top.  This is not French onion soup.  After dropping it on my table, I asked the waitress if the cheese was supposed to be melted.. to which she replied.. “Oh yeah, I forgot to put it in the microwave..”  Sigh.  I told her to leave it, I ate it with about as much enthusiasm as a child eats broccoli.  To be honest the soup wasn’t half bad, it was just disappointing as a whole.  Restaurants and cooks out there, do me a favor, if you can’t do something right, or with an ounce of pride or care.. just don’t do it.. don’t put it on your menu, don’t try and fail; because you owe it to the people who come in and pay for your food, which pays your salaries, to care and provide quality.

And most importantly you owe it to yourself to take pride in the fruits of your labor, to taste and adjust seasoning, to wipe the edge of that plate, to refire that piece of chicken when you hear your self about to say,”its not that bad”.. it is, and to put that French onion soup under the broiler you have in your kitchen, instead of in the microwave.. come on, do the right thing, it feels better.


  • 1 year ago
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WHERE IM EATING / LOVING AT THE MOMENT

Los Andes - Chalkstone Ave., Providence RI

So I have been meaning to get to Los Andes forever, people have been telling me how good it is.. so finally, I grabbed my Peruvian buddy Andres and took him to have some “authentic” Peruvian food.  Now Andres isn’t some “my mom is Peruvian kind of guy”, hes from Peru, here doing his PhD, and missing the flavors of his country.  Se we walk in, its not a flashy or fancy place, small bar, decent decorations, clean and super friendly wait staff and bartender.  We grab a seat at the bar and of course, have to have a Pisco Sour, and it was perfect.. just sweet enough, could taste the Pisco, and just the right amount of foam from the egg whites.  Perfect, we’re off to a good start.

Appetizers we’re quickly ordered, as Andres was salivating at this point. Causa Lamena and Champinones rellenos.  The Causa is essentially delicious mashed potatoes filled with avocado mousse, topped with shredded chicken and a slice of hardboiled egg, drizzled with a couple tasty and spicy sauces.  I never thought some cold mashed potatoes could be so perfect.  Seasoning and flavors we’re spot on.  The champinones (mushrooms) were delicious as well.. stuffed with ritz cracker, corn, chilis, queso blanco crisped too perfection, and topped off with a garlicky chimichurri butter.  Taste bud explosion.  I could have stopped here, but we went on.

Entrees we split.. Andres got the Chichirrone and I got the Bifsteck a la Pobre.  A giant piece of ribeye, cooked perfectly, seasoned well on top of some hand cut fries, rice, some amazing fried plantains and a couple fried eggs on top to boot.  Why not.  Pour on a little beef jous, and its in the bag.  So much food.. and I think it was $13 bucks.  My buddy Marcus was there as well, and he got the Picante Mixo, beef tongue and a chicken quarter.. he didn’t have a lot to say, since his mouth was consistently full.  All in all, great meal, Stamp of authentic approval form Andres, and it didn’t break the bank.  2 apps, 3 entrees, and 6 alcohol drinks came in right at $80.  Great place, great food, great value.  Los Andes is in my permanent rotation.  Oh, and there was a line at 7 PM on a Thursday and a fun Peruvian live band playing.  icing on the cake.

  • 1 year ago
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WHERE I PLAN ON EATING in PVD

ROXY’S LOBSTER FOOD TRUCK / KENNEDY PLAZA

Nothing could have made me happier walking down to Kennedy Plaza to get my food truck fix (I am mildy obsessed with them at the moment) and see this newcomer popup on the scene.  Roxy’s Lobster is an extension of Monahan’s Clam Cake Shack in Narragansett (http://www.monahansri.com/).  Owned by Matt and Dee Combs this new rolling clam cake and chowda machine will be making stops all around the state, and lucky for us working DownCity this summer, they will be frequenting Kennedy Plaza.  So for us worker drones, we can get a taste of the beach without actually being in South County.  And in my opinion, Monahans/Roxy’s clam cakes and chowder are the best in the state, hands down.  So check em out, I know I can’t wait.

Also serving Lobster Roles, Fish Sandwiches and Lobster Bisque.

Follow them on Twitter @RoxysLobster

  • 1 year ago
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THE FOOD TRUCK REVOLUTION

WHERE IM EATING / LOVING RIGHT NOW

Poco Loco Tacos / Hewtin Mobile / Fancheezical / Mijo Taco’s / Rocket Food Truck / Mama Kims Korean BBQ / Plouf Gastronomie

So over the last couple of years, we have gone from a food truck or two, to a veritable Armada of tasty mobile kitchens scouring our fair city and festivals.

Newcomers to the scene this year include Fancheezical, serving up some gourmet style grill cheese action served witha shooter of tasty tomato soup.  Rocket Food Truck, specializing in fine beef burgers sourced locally and made with care and the latest addition, Plouf Gastronomie, a high end gourmet french cuisine food truck, with a legit French Chef serving up escargot, and mussels, duck confit, and salmon galletes.  

And then there are the old vet’s.. Hewtin Mobile serving up just about every part you can cut off a tasty pig.. and homemade sausage; Poco Loco Tacos - the name says it all.. tasty chicken, pork, beef and chorizo with a bevy of salsas, sauces and modes of consumption, ie hard/soft taco, burrito, or flatbread, Mijo Tacos - also serving up tasty mexican delights, Mama Kim’s Korean BBQ, with a punch in the mouth of Korean BBq flavored cuisine, and finally Roxy’s Lobster, the new kid on the scene with the South County beach food, Clam cakes and Chowda, lobster rolls, and fish sandwiches.

Some usual haunts for these rolling culinary delights usually include many of the citys Farmers Markets, the Grant Block Downcity, Thayer Street, Pawtucket’s Farmers Market, behind Empire Plaza and in Kennedy Plaza.  They can be tracked by following them on Twitter, or looking for their schedules on their websites.  Either way, they are worth hunting down and sampling, over and over again, you won’t be disappointed.

Twitter

@ploufplouftruck

@pocolocotacos

@chezpascal (Hewtin Mobile)

@mijostacos

@fancheezical

@rockettruck

@mamakimskbbq

@RoxysLobster

  • 1 year ago
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WHERE IM EATING

Apsara, (Public St., Providence RI)

Min Chow, Tom Yum Soup, Crispy Duck

So I have been meaning to get to Apsara on Public st, the original Apsara, and man am I glad I did.  The place is a bit sketchy at first, but the food is amazing.  Don’t expect any frills, and it is quite possible your too will be cold, but the nim chow is on point with tons of basil, and fresh plump shrimp.  I also got the Tom Yum soup with chicken and asked for it to be extra spicy, and boy dod they oblige.. the broth was delicious, full of lemongrass and lime leaves, the mushrooms were nice and tender and it was spicy.  So good.  My GF got the crispy duck.. all she has been talking about for months is the Crispy Duck, and finally.. the Crispy Duck was also amazing.  Perfectly crispy rendered skin, a yummy dipping sauce to go with, and call it a night.  Apsara, you are worth the extra drive, and the potential drive by, I will be back soon.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/apsara-restaurant-providence#hrid:K27wGVtfVHiNv-rdfYm-1g

  • 1 year ago
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WHAT IM COOKING (for Easter Dinner)

Stuffed Pork Loin; w/ apples, cider cured bacon, herbs, dried cherries and golden raisins


TBC


  • 1 year ago
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WHAT IM EATING

Ballpark Smoked Turkey Dog w/ Avocado, banana pepper and sweet chili sauce, home made cole slaw, and sweet potato fries.

Ahh, the humble hot dog.  One of my favorites, especially now that grilling season is just about upon us.  I have been making a concerted effort as of late to eat healthier.  I’m not getting any younger, or skinnier so, I love to find alternatives the the old “bad” foods.  I came across these smoked turkey hot dogs at Target and figured why not give them a try.  Now I am a huge hot dog lover, give me an all beef Hebrew National any day and I’m a happy man, so talking turkey dogs is almost sacrilegious.  But comparing 45 calories per dog (for the turkey version) to 180 for the regular beef, concessions must be made.  So, I decided to shake it up a bit and skip the mustard and ketchup for some fresh sliced avocado, some banana peppers and some sweet chili sauce.  Amazing.  

Paired with some home made Coleslaw.  I cheated a bit and used a bag of preshredded coleslaw mix, but added some life into it by adding some chopped parsley and scallions along with a dressing made from; mostly low fat sour cream, a tablespoon of light mayo, some spicy brown mustard, some lemon juice, sweet chili sauce, apple cider vinegar, 3 or 4 splashes of Worcestershire sauce, a few dashes of Tobasco, a little sugar to taste, and salt and pepper.  

Finally, this time really cheating, some McCains sweet potato crinkle cut fries.  I saw them and couldn’t resist.  Usually I cut my own, but they looked fun and quick and easy.

All in all, it goes to show, food doesn’t have to be fancy or gourmet, with a few simple ingredients and a little help from a few semi prepared store bought products, youc an have a delicious and healthy meal.

(I plan to start providing calorie counts for some of the meals I prepare, and some more in depth recipe breakdowns.  Stay tuned.)

  • 1 year ago
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WHERE IM EATING
Sura (Providence, RI)
Tuna Tataki
So let me start off my saying, this is not an actual image of the Tuna Tataki I had at Sura the other night, I was there for a dinner meeting with my boss and felt weird about pulling out my phone and grabbing a pic, but it is a damn close facsimile. (Post updated, and now this is the Tuna Tatake from Sura) I will snap a shot next time I go and order it, because it cannot come soon enough.  I have eaten at Sura half a dozen times since they have opened, since it is close to work, it is one of our go to lunch spots.  The Korean BBQ is tasty, and they have decent lunch specials.  How disappointed I am that I never got the Tuna Tataki before now.  I have had this similar dish at many different Japanese style restaurants and always enjoyed it, but Sura has made all others in my mind obsolete.  First off it was so slightly seared to be almost imperceivable in appearance (change in color of the meat) or texture.  But there was a distinct char/crust on the tender fish’s exterior.  Each bite was a salty, tangy, spicy and smokey treat.  The texture of the tuna was perfect, probably the best mouth feel of any I have ever had.  the ponzu was salty and spicy with a touch of citrus, and amazing.  But it was the smokiness that really did it for me.  However they flash seared the meat imparted such a depth of flavor, it is wonderful.  If you like tuna, go try this dish immediately.  I will be there for lunch on Monday.. can’t wait.
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WHERE IM EATING

Sura (Providence, RI)

Tuna Tataki

So let me start off my saying, this is not an actual image of the Tuna Tataki I had at Sura the other night, I was there for a dinner meeting with my boss and felt weird about pulling out my phone and grabbing a pic, but it is a damn close facsimile. (Post updated, and now this is the Tuna Tatake from Sura) I will snap a shot next time I go and order it, because it cannot come soon enough.  I have eaten at Sura half a dozen times since they have opened, since it is close to work, it is one of our go to lunch spots.  The Korean BBQ is tasty, and they have decent lunch specials.  How disappointed I am that I never got the Tuna Tataki before now.  I have had this similar dish at many different Japanese style restaurants and always enjoyed it, but Sura has made all others in my mind obsolete.  First off it was so slightly seared to be almost imperceivable in appearance (change in color of the meat) or texture.  But there was a distinct char/crust on the tender fish’s exterior.  Each bite was a salty, tangy, spicy and smokey treat.  The texture of the tuna was perfect, probably the best mouth feel of any I have ever had.  the ponzu was salty and spicy with a touch of citrus, and amazing.  But it was the smokiness that really did it for me.  However they flash seared the meat imparted such a depth of flavor, it is wonderful.  If you like tuna, go try this dish immediately.  I will be there for lunch on Monday.. can’t wait.

  • 1 year ago
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WHAT IM COOKING

Portuguese Sweet Bread

So this deliciously sweet, lemony and yeasty bread is a staple in portuguese families, and usually comes out in abundance especially around Easter.  For more years than I have been alive the duty of making sweet breads for easter (usually with an egg in the middle) has fallen on my grandmother, who with her recipe stored dutifully in her head would take out her giant, dented metal bowl and pick up a couple bags of Five Roses flour, and churn out loaf after sweet loaf of this amazing bread.  This is the first Easter our family will not have sweet bread from my grandmothers hands, as she passed away a few weeks ago, so I took it on as my duty to prepare the sweet bread, and honor her memory, by trying to stumble through a partial recipe quickly jotted down by my mother, during one such observation of my grandmother making her sweet bread recipe.  Food memories play such an important part in peoples lives, they can help us remember good times, and even better people, and as I zested lemons yesterday, and kneaded dough, and as I rose at 4 am to cut dough and place it neatly in loaf pans (just as my grandmother would) I thought of her, and I smiled.  And all day being in my house with the smell of warm fresh sweet bread filling the air, it brought me back to being a little kid, following behind my vovo, getting in her way, and itching to get that first taste of warm bread, slathered with butter, and again I smiled.

(In remembrance of Maria Jesus Dutra, you will always be loved and missed)

  • 1 year ago
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WHAT IM BUYING
Just picked up 5 new heavy duty loaf pans to make some Portuguese Sweet Bread for Easter… trying to make grandma proud and do the family recipe justice.
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WHAT IM BUYING

Just picked up 5 new heavy duty loaf pans to make some Portuguese Sweet Bread for Easter… trying to make grandma proud and do the family recipe justice.

  • 1 year ago
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About

Avatar The musings of a self proclaimed "food lover", YELP! Elite Squad Member, former chef, part time all around restaurant guy, and full time Scientist, I decided to make a space for my pursuits in tasting, preparing and experiencing food here in the smallest State in the Nation, and to share my love of the food I have encountered here in Rhode island, and beyond.

So my name is Joe, I have lived in Rhode Island my whole life, and have always had a passion for food.. I love eating it, making it, talking about it.. whatever. I have held just about every job in the restaurant business.. from pizza maker to prep cook, catering chef to cruise line chef, fry guy to short order and everything else in between. I no longer cook for my living, but am now living to cook (and eat). I love experiencing culture through food, it is truly an insight into the makeup of many different ethnic groups. I also am learning to explore a healthy approach to many of the foods I have loved my whole life and trying them out on friends and family. I love to discuss food and recipes, and provide tips and insight, so feel free to ask a question, or offer some advice, or a tip on some to die for grub.

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